Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 at 2:07 pm  |  57 responses

5 Observations from Istanbul

Here’s what I’ve learned so far.

by Matt Lawyue / @mlawyue

1. Perhaps the biggest tourist attraction of Istanbul is Kapalıçarşı, or The Grand Bazaar. It’s miles and miles of vendors selling everything from kitchen utensils to olives to pashmina’s to kicks and most things inbetween. It’s almost impossible to comprehend the massive network of tunnels, back alleys and shops this market contains. If you don’t get lost or walk around in the same circle a couple of times, you’re not exploring properly. Not for a lack of direction, or a map, as I decided to venture, but because if you’re marking the hookah shop as your point of reference and think you’ve turned left already, you naturally turn right to see something new. Only problem is, that hookah shop is a different stall, only selling the exact same products, in the exact same colors, tricking you into a false reference point. Confusing enough?Grand Bazaar

And if you ever ask somebody to guide you in the right direction, you for sure as hell better ask a tourist and not a vendor. Asking a vendor for directions is the kiss of death. They’ll flirt with you, ask you where you’re from and make you feel comfortable. You tell yourself, no, not I, I won’t fall victim to their scam, their false sense of friendship. Next thing you know, you’re walking away 40 Turkish Lira lighter, with a probably Made In China pashmina and still without proper directions. Yes, you poor sucker, have been scammed by the best in the world. Don’t be ashamed or embarrassed. Just submit defeat to crafty crafty veterans of the game.

2. Danny Granger made these comments about hygiene in Europe:

“im dying over here…. how come nobody in europe wears deodorant? guess they didnt get the memo … smellin like dead donkeys… no joke”

Like the broke just-out-of-college graduate I am, I declined the expensive media hotels, with their free shuttle to and from the arenas. I’ve learned to use the metro system instead, hustling and bustling with the everyday folk of this lovely city. Riding the metro everyday, this coming from a kid who grew up on NYC’s MTA, you experience one distinct smell. Now, I’m not saying Granger is wrong in his comments, but let’s not exaggerate and use “dead donkeys.” It’s distinctly body odor, sometimes so horrid, so nasal inhibiting, you smell it even when nobody’s around. I walked into an empty train yesterday and was greeted by its odor. It’s pungent in the worst kind of way. But not “dead donkeys” by any means.

3. European fans love their FIBA dancers. Across America in NBA arenas, fans are more or less blasé about the cheerleaders. Sure, they’ll clap when the routine is completed, maybe a little louder if the outfits are skimpier. But these FIBA dancers, boy, do they receive an ovation. Well deserved, however, when they have two girls climb up through the hoop and stand and perform acrobatic maneuvers on the backboard that should never be attempted by anyone, ever.

Apparently, the Red Foxes had to cut their routine short.

4. You’re taught in journalism classes to exhibit unbiased reporting, writing and editing as a journalist. Always provide both sides to the story and if at all possible, avoid unanimous anonymous* sources. One of the hardest things I had to learn was not cheering while in press row, with a credential around my neck. The first game I covered was a Knicks game, and up until then, I knew know no* other way but to cheer and scream for my beloved clowns.

Now, I don’t know what’s taught in foreign journalism classes, but apparently displaying outright emotion for your country is acceptable behavior. Even while I type this, Chinese media were playing the part of fan while in press row, in their loss to Lithuania. They were jumping up and down, screaming, shouting, cheering and the like. Lithuanian journalists as well. It’s happened all tournament and something I still can’t put a finger on.

Right? Wrong? Ethical? Unethical? Unbiased? Biased?

Oh yeah, after losing to Team USA, some players from the opposing teams specifically seek out USA players for a photo op.

So who the hell knows what flies anymore.Fish Vendor

5. If there’s ever a guy along a river grilling fish and selling it in bread, with a tomato, basil, cilantro, onion and lemon concoction, you buy one and eat it. This might be the greatest advice I’ll ever give you. Your life will change.

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  • RIGGS Posted: Sep.7 at 2:42 pm
    that smell? It’s called Sex Panther by Odeon. It’s illegal in nine countries… it’s made with bits of real panther, so you know it’s good.

  • Rubens Posted: Sep.7 at 2:55 pm
    @RIGGS and, 60% of the time, it works every time. Matt, brazilian meadia does that too. Guess it’s ok when it’s international play. Great article…

  • niQ Posted: Sep.7 at 2:59 pm
    Sex Panther LOL

  • GIANNIS BOUROUSIS Posted: Sep.7 at 3:00 pm
    nice article.

  • Ben Osborne Posted: Sep.7 at 3:02 pm
    Matt just keeps killing it from Turkey. So glad we have him there.

  • Evin Demirel Posted: Sep.7 at 3:20 pm
    So right about the cheering from reporters blurring the lines b/t unbiased reporting and unfettered fandom. Yesterday I sat behind a Russian sports guy on press row during the Russian beatdown of New Zealand. Blond Dude was built a little bit like Kermit the Frog, and every time the Russians would make a crucial score, it was as if some puppeteer on high was yanking those balled fists upward!

  • Flud Posted: Sep.7 at 3:26 pm
    I live in Europe…I spray on a bit of ‘Black Suede’ from time to time.

  • Allenp Posted: Sep.7 at 4:48 pm
    I think you might have meant “anonymous” not “unanimous” sources. Cool read though.

  • Lang Whitaker Posted: Sep.7 at 5:25 pm
    Great stuff, Matt.

  • ab40 Posted: Sep.7 at 5:36 pm
    @ no. 1 you saw that dude that makes turkish drivers licenses and pasports? that’s just crazy. oh and get a turkish bath while you’re at it you’re an american so you’re probably homophobic but it’s a great expierience. no.2 granger is bein a punk and it’s ramadan so some people don’t wash at all for 30 days. and it’s eastern europe.. not western europe but that’s a discusion for another day. @ 3 they’re good and they deserve an aplause they got like 4 dances for every team. they even had some for Iran. and woman can’t show more than their eyes in some parts of Iran so kudo’s to them. @ no.4 you are probably disturbed by the fact that they don’t try to pinpoint every single thing that is wrong and just be happy for their people to do well on one of the biggest sports events in the world. for some people this is a big deal @ no.5 I missed out on that one when I was there I’ll try to find that dude the next time i’m in Istanbul. I’m surprised you didn’t name traffic there haha because it’s crazy.

  • davidR Posted: Sep.7 at 5:37 pm
    haha @ evin. great visual

  • Michael NZ Posted: Sep.7 at 5:52 pm
    Funny stuff. Re #4: do credentialed writers worry that, over time, you’ll become completely zombiefied and disengaged as to the support of teams? As in: take in games, show no bias, report story, on to next game. Could be robotic, no?

  • Erildas Budraitis Posted: Sep.7 at 6:24 pm
    Sorry, colleague, but write and discuss about the smell of Europeans is at least ridiculous. I don’t believe that people in the States are completely differ… I can’t believe I’m taking about that. By the way, I like your thoughts about journalism ethic and Lithuanian journalists. But you know, they are covering games for their country and I think they really don’t care about being ethical at this point. But I agree with your thoughts but it’s still questionable.

  • Susan Price Posted: Sep.7 at 6:31 pm
    love this matt.

  • ilyasova Posted: Sep.7 at 6:47 pm
    @Matt ; guy along a river? there are no rivers in İstanbul. thats bosphorus bro:)

  • Jukai Posted: Sep.7 at 7:26 pm
    ahaha at Riggs

  • Jukai Posted: Sep.7 at 8:01 pm
    Great article, btw

  • Edu Mendonça Posted: Sep.7 at 8:31 pm
    @ab40 and @Budraitis: Matt is right about the smell subject. Most men here don’t even know what a deodorant is. It’s a cultural thing, ok, but for us, western people, it’s something really weird – and so strong I couldn’t even believe in my first few days here is Istanbul (I gave up the metro because of that). @Matt: I think it’s ok to cheer, as long as you don’t translate that into your text. I’ve been to several FIBA events, including Vegas’07, and almost all journalists do that – even americans. What is completely different when we’re workind in club games, like you in MSG with the Knicks or myself with Flamengo in Maracanã. Then we really must keep our composure. And, by the way, since I’m here, Scola had today one of the most impressive international performances ever while sending us home, unfortunatelly. Props to everybody at Slam.

  • Darksaber Posted: Sep.7 at 8:49 pm
    Hey, at least it didn’t smell like a San Diego (Whale’s Vagina) in that train. Now about that Paschmina, that was for your Mum, right? Right?

  • Darksaber Posted: Sep.7 at 8:51 pm
    Scola = Beast.

  • Darksaber Posted: Sep.7 at 8:57 pm
    You want biased reporting? During the Dirk Nowitzki years of German national bball sucess, a now legendary Tv commentator lovingly called Buschi (Frank Buschmann) regularly went loco on live telecasts. He’d scream, hyperventilate plead at refs, and generally lose his mind. Personally, i loved every.second.of.it.

  • Michael NZ Posted: Sep.7 at 9:10 pm
    Tommy Heinsohn?

  • The Nupe Posted: Sep.7 at 9:12 pm
    This was a good read. I think unbiased reporting is important/expected when reporting as a general sportscaster (e.g. ESPN or TNT reporting on the days games or some ‘random’ game). However ‘hometeam’ sports reporters often times ‘talk-up’ their teams and say things like another great win for the ___ or this was a tough loss etc. I think rooting for your own national team is somewhat expected and perfectly acceptable. However if for example the reporter is from Lithuania and he/she is reporing on China versu France, then I’d expect the Lithuanian reporter to be unbiased. In general when reporting specifically to or for the hometown, it’s o.k. to cheer and show bias, but when reporting for the ‘general public’ then that’s a differnt story. Well at least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it because I’ve done some podcasting for my High School and yes, I rooted for them.

  • total scrotal implosion Posted: Sep.7 at 9:23 pm
    Great stuff. I was going to point that out allen. Was he at a boxing match. Anyways . ‘knew no’ not ‘knew know’

  • Darksaber Posted: Sep.7 at 9:27 pm
    Riggs has me digging out the Anchorman Dvd….

  • Ronald Posted: Sep.7 at 11:01 pm
    @Michael NZ: Co-sign, that guy is such a homer he comes off as a d!ck. I still can’t believe he called the Magic dirty.

  • JTaylor21 Posted: Sep.8 at 12:05 am
    I still don’t know how celtics fans can sit through a game on tv listening to the MOST ANNOYING man (Heinsohn) in the world and still stay sane.

  • k Posted: Sep.8 at 12:24 am
    Matt, you’re from NYC? How you know what a dead donkey does or doesn’t smell like?

  • jf Posted: Sep.8 at 1:08 am
    In my experience not cheering for your national team while covering an event is an anglo-saxon thing. I’ve covered a few Olympics, World Cups etc and it is only the Brits, Americans, Australians etc. who sit stoically punching away their story for their editor. All the other journos happy to jump about like every other fan in the stadium. Not sure if they care about their deadlines. I’ve seen Argentinean reporters crying in the tribune after their team lost in the semi-finals of the Rugby World Cup. Oh, and Granger saying nobody in ‘Europe’ wears deodorant is just ignorant. Hygiene means different things to different people (try India), deal with it or stay at home.

  • qasclk Posted: Sep.8 at 1:27 am
    Talk about over reacting Soocer comentators always make my day:) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huang_Jianxiang

  • autovit Posted: Sep.8 at 1:28 am
    Turkey has many beautiful places that can be visited. Istanbul is a city full of history. Bazaar is a place where people come to go shopping, not those who want to see the city

  • Teddy-the-Bear Posted: Sep.8 at 1:48 am
    Matt Lawyue = One of the best writers SLAM has to offer now. Great stuff, man!

  • Teddy-the-Bear Posted: Sep.8 at 1:48 am
    On all the FIBA coverage from Istanbul! Definitely enjoying the ones I’m reading.

  • TrailBlazing&SportingLisbon Posted: Sep.8 at 1:50 am
    co sign JTaylor for the first time…and that smell issue, well Turkey is an half asian country with almost ZERO european type lifestyle, so dont put us in the same wagon, im sure its a lovely place though…visit Lisbon, Porto, Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, Berlin, London, Oslo, Copenhaghen, Rome, Milan, etc and you americans(hey Danny boy, lookin atcha) would find out youre the filthy ones, lol

  • TrailBlazing&SportingLisbon Posted: Sep.8 at 2:10 am
    oh, awsome read dude…just for the sake of it: LIKE IN FOOTBALL(SOCCER), WHEN YOUR COUNTRY IS PLAYIN IN MAJOR SPORTS EVENTS,ALL RULES ARE OUT, YOU CHEER, YOU SUFFER AND YOU HOPE TO WIN WHILE REPORTING IT…thats how we do it all over Europe at least.

  • Erildas Budraitis Posted: Sep.8 at 2:32 am
    TrailBlazing&SportingLisbon – I agree with you. Just a small part of Turkey is in Europe side, the biggest part is in Asia. And it’s obvious that you can’t say that Turkey – is the whole Europe.

  • Erildas Budraitis Posted: Sep.8 at 2:36 am
    TrailBlazing – I agree with you. Just a small part of Turkey is in Europe side, the biggest part is in Asia. And it’s obvious that you can’t say that Turkey – is the whole Europe.

  • Tariq Posted: Sep.8 at 2:49 am
    You should really do yourself a favor and youtube “Camacho + Iniesta”. Jose Camacho is a former player and coach who was doing the color commentary for Spanish TV. the clip is his reaction to Andres Iniesta’s goal, right at the end of the World Cup Final, that won the Cup for Spain for the first time in their history. Priceless.

  • Tariq Posted: Sep.8 at 3:01 am
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auvql0Q_700

  • DJ Pierrot Posted: Sep.8 at 4:01 am
    Granger is like most of US people : ETHNOCENTRIC. He’s overrated and and a morron.

  • Frenchtoast Posted: Sep.8 at 4:23 am
    @ DJ Pierrot : + 1 000
    And please tell Granger Turkey is in Asia not Europe, thanks.

  • Michael NZ Posted: Sep.8 at 4:50 am
    @Frenchtoast: remember, if you’re not from America, you’re from that country called ‘Europe’.

  • kcj Posted: Sep.8 at 5:48 am
    Props to frenchtoast.
    Turkey is not a member of the european union nor is 3/4 of the country even on the continent called europe. Thats like being to greenbo, alabama once and sayin all of america is like that.
    If u realize that u r actual in “the mexico” of europe u might be more aware of some stuff.
    Same thing on cheerleaders: your in a country where there’s no spearmint rhino’s on every corner, where women are not sopossed to be shown. Got to you that non of the cheerleader squats are even from turkey? They cheer about it cause the don’t get to see that shit a lot.
    Come next week they are a country without human rights and where people don’t get to eat till sunset again … But hey it might help Hedo to get back in shape again

  • Germs Posted: Sep.8 at 7:27 am
    Co-sign Michael. To a lot of Americans there are only two countries on this planet.
    @Matt; good article and fun to read. Absolutely agree with you on #5. Don’t think about hygiene, just eat and enjoy.

  • Torrance Posted: Sep.8 at 7:28 am
    @Frenchtoast; although the biggest part is Asian, Turkey is often referred to as European. It has been trying to become a member of the EU for quite a while now, and in sports, it has always participated in European leagues.

  • Matt Lawyue Posted: Sep.8 at 7:51 am
    Appreciate all the comments, particularly the editorial ones. Yeah, the journalism topic – I agree as long as it doesn’t translate in the writing it should be fine to cheer for your country. It’s just a cultural thing I’m learning, like the hygiene topic as well. I’m not saying it’s right or wrong, just an observation. It’s part of the experience traveling to different countries, always learning new cultures and customs.

  • mister8 Posted: Sep.8 at 7:58 am
    There’s nothing European about Turkey, period.

  • Matt Lawyue Posted: Sep.8 at 7:59 am
    @darksaber – for the women in my fam! @k – I’ve been to a farm or two in my life and, although I’ve never smelled a dead donkey, I can imagine the smell is infinitely times worse than body odor. @ilyasova – my bad, the Bosphorus Strait!

  • Edu Mendonça Posted: Sep.8 at 8:02 am
    I’ll try to find you at the arena for a coffee today, Matt. See you.

  • Matt Lawyue Posted: Sep.8 at 8:28 am
    Looking forward to it, Edu.

  • fkim Posted: Sep.8 at 9:41 am
    first– i got schooled by the moroccan vendors too, but i hope you learn pretty quick you can haggle them down a LOT if you’ve got your smarts about you. you can get that pashmina for 30% of the original price, i BET you. second– have you ever smelled a dead donkey? i’m willing to be it might even be MORE pleasant that nasty european b/o. oh & the red foxes sound like they came straight from a sexshow in amsterdam, the way you put it hahaha. BRING ME BACK A FISH SANDWICH!

  • D12FSU Posted: Sep.8 at 7:49 pm
    ive been to Turkey, its a great country, everything written about the non-basketball stuff is absolutely true

  • Ronald Posted: Sep.8 at 11:39 pm
    There are more Granger golden tweets lately too. Something about that he doesn’t understand why in America they all speak on language whilst in Europe that all speak different languages.

  • Ariel Posted: Sep.9 at 2:25 am
    Lols. They should have the next world championships in Israel, your taste buds will go crazy :)

  • ilyasova Posted: Sep.9 at 3:17 am
    @ronald. these guys(granger, gay and probably some others) think europe is a country. thats why they think they should speak the same language.

  • Edu Mendonça Posted: Sep.9 at 4:31 am
    Matt, coudn’t find you yesterday, so crowded it was the press area (should have figured). Today, look for a guy wearing a red AJ cap. See you.

  • Aeee Posted: Sep.9 at 12:53 pm
    Great observations and will take them into consideration when I visit Turkey, especially #2 and 5.

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